Cultural Fair, Tortillas, and Bees

Today my group members, Spanish instructor, and technical trainer all met with three people from our town that will be helping us during the next few months. We (all five of us Peace Corps Trainees) are living together in a small town, and part of our training is to do some type of project. All the groups in different towns have different projects to accomplish based on the need(s) of their town. Our project is to organize a cultural fair to attract tourists, promote the Mayan heritage and culture of the town, and to help the local women artisan groups to sell their hand-woven goods. I feel very unqualified to perform such a task, but it will be very interesting learning how the business side of things works, and also to interact with women’s groups in a machismo culture.

The people in my group are really fun and interesting people, and we all have varied backgrounds, though it is easy to see where each person’s experience will come in handy for this project. Hillary has a Master’s degree in something having to do with business and finance, and a few years of work experience as well. Stacey has a Bachelor’s in forestry and environmental studies, and has experience with birds. Alex has a degree in environmental studies and has experience in conservation and has also done volunteer work overseas. Chad has a degree in business and has experience in outdoor and environmental education. Finally there’s me, with a degree in ecology and experience in environmental education and management of natural lands. None of us really have much experience in cultural matters or the like, but we’re all pretty jazzed about having this opportunity to learn something completely new.

The majority of our project, though I still know little about it, centers around organizing a fair to include: selling hand-made goods, dancing, singing, selling of food, Mayan games, music lessons, and anything else we can think of. The idea is to get tourists involved in the culture rather than just buying something tangible. For example, instead of selling fresh tortillas on the corner, we could sell the raw dough (masa) along with a tortilla-clapping lesson, then let the tourists clap and bake their own tortillas to eat. This would bring in more money to the locals for the ingredients and time they put out, and would hopefully engage the tourist more, make their memory of the town stronger, and make them appreciate all the hard work these women put into their lives every day.

On that note, I received my first tortilla-clapping lesson today. I tried (badly) to make a couple last week while I was making tamales and chuchitas, but I was so terrible they decided it would be better to put me to work on something else. Today was better. The first few came out in odd squarish or other weird shapes, with holes in them and uneven edges. I made about 8 of them, and the last two came out okay, in an oval sort of shape, but without holes in the middle. Then we ate them for dinner because they were not fit to sell (my words, not my host mother’s!). We were both having a good laugh throughout the process. I think, even though I’m not that great at cooking anything, she likes having someone around that wants to learn and is willing to try. She said that the last volunteer she had was a little anti-social and didn’t put much effort into assimilating, getting to know the town, getting to know her group members, and just participating in whole. I’ve had a lot to do this past week but I spend as much time as I can around the house with her and her daughter, because no matter what they’re doing, they’re always talking and talking with them (which is much easier than talking with the menfolk and the children) is the best thing I can do to improve my Spanish.

One of the first days of class when I arrived we were asked to write down what our biggest fears were about joining the Peace Corps. Aside from major bodily injury, I wrote down that my Spanish speaking level was my biggest fear, and that I though it would be beyond impossible to ever really understand what was going on. I was really wrong. I do make a ton of mistakes in my speech, but everybody seems to understand how hard I’m trying to learn and learn correctly, and they always take time to help me or correct me or answer whatever question I might have. I can’t even imagine what interesting conversations I’ll be able to have in one more month when our levels of understanding each other are that much higher. Today, I don’t remember how we got on the topic, but my host mother Esperanza and I started talking about bees. I started telling her about the honey bee dance and how they are so intelligent about using that form of communication to convey the location of food and water to each other. She seemed so enthralled, and not at all confused at me telling her that another animal besides humans had intelligence and communication. She agrees with me that it’s important to take care of other animals simply because they have life, just like us, and she also added in that flowers have feelings too. I said I agreed even though I don’t, but it’s close enough. She accredits it to God, that God gave all animals and plants life and that’s why they’re all important. Even though we have totally different reasons, we still believe exactly the same things. It’s pretty cool. I feel better knowing that I’ll be able to relate to a lot of people here on the things that are most important to me.

First Trip to Headquarters

Today I rode my first “camioneta”, chicken bus in English, which is an old school bus from the US, repainted and with a little engine work, and used as the major form of public transportation here in Guatemala. Cost: Q7 (US $.90) to ride from my town to Peace Corps headquarters. I live in a small town with 3, soon to be 4, other volunteers of the same language level, and we are pretty lucky to live very close (as in walking distance) to another town which is also hosting five volunteers, two of which brought guitars with them. The camioneta ride was very crowded; you have to get on early in the route in order to get a seat which we were lucky enough to do on the trip there. On the trip back however, the bus was so packed with three people to a seat and others crammed in standing up. The busses come often, but all are just as crowded. It’s the mode of transport I’ll have to get used to! All I am really worried about is theft. I’m carrying around my camera basically everywhere I go now because one never knows when that perfect photo opportunity will be, and I’m sure there will be plenty in the next couple years. I know the risks, but what’s the point of having a nice camera if it’s going to sit in my room all day? I knew the risk when I decided to bring it and if something happens, oh well. I’ll just deal with it.

Today I also bought my first newspaper in Spanish. I figured that reading would help my language learning even more than the speaking I do in class and around the house with my host family. Books are very expensive in Guatemala, I think partly because they’re not very popular. People don’t have a lot of time to relax, and when they do, they would prefer to do other things. I read one article in the paper about corruption, taxes, and the government. I read the same short article four times and each time I found more words that I needed to ask about or look up in a dictionary. The 13 year old Marvin helped me with most of the words. The weird thing is, even after a whole day in English (today we had classes in English), something just clicked with my Spanish speaking this evening. I was helping Miriam, the daughter, make dinner and the sentences just seem to flow out without much stumbling and dictionary-looking. It was great. I hope to find a bookstore soon to buy a book in Spanish that I know well in English.

Tomorrow we are going into the city of Antigua, which is a huge tourist town, but it has a bank and other shops and everybody in my group has a small shopping list of things that we can’t buy here in our small town. I especially want to find a music store and look at the guitars. I know I’m going to buy one eventually, hopefully sooner rather than later, but I want to make sure I get one of good quality so it is probably better to look around before I buy. Even if I’m not happy with the guitars they sell in Antigua I could at least get a handmade flute or other simple instrument to satisfy my musical needs. In Antigua we also hope to buy cell phones which will make coordination with other groups much easier. Oh yeah, plus calls to the US are pretty cheap so, if I feel like it, I guess I’ll be able to call home once in a while.

Where I live the only access to internet is via an internet café that costs Q8 (US $1) per hour, which is pretty cheap, but I don’t use it every day. I also can’t access the internet with my own computer so I can’t use Skype either.

Yesterday we found out what our project is. Every training group has a small project they complete together with their host community during their three months of training. We will be organizing a cultural fair to attract tourists who want to learn about this town of Mayan descent. There will be music and dancing, food, drinks, hand-made goods to sell, art, etc… I was a little put off at first because none of this really has to do with ecology and the environment, but I’m willing to give it a shot. I do hope that when I get placed at my permanent site my job will deal more with nature, but this will be a good learning experience for me. I’ll get to learn about small businesses, marketing, advertising, and I’ll do it all in Spanish. We will be learning more about this project tomorrow and Thursday so I’ll write more about that when I find out more.

Volcan del Fuego

Last night was the first night in my new host family’s house and I slept so good. No roosters (gallos), no firecrackers, no church music, no footsteps from the floors above me. Nothing. I woke up at 7:30 on my own clock and the first thing I saw when I looked outside was smoke coming out of a volcano! This is normal and also really neat, because I’ve never seen an active volcano. I took a few photographs but then everybody sat down for breakfast. I ate two more tamales for breakfast. After, I helped a little with some cooking, but in the middle of cooking my host mother asked me if I wanted to go with her (where? I didn’t know, but I said yes anyway). She put a huge bucket of corn granules, that had been soaked in water and boiled over a fire for an hour, on her head and we walked downstairs and down a few blocks. We came to a small room with a large machine called a “molino” which is used to grind the granules into corn-mush called “masa“. We dumped our bucket of granules into the feeder and then something that rotates pretty fast ground them and deposited them into a receptacle. The old woman managing the machine felt the masa with her hand as it came out and kept adjusting the amount of water being added. We packed the masa back into the bucket and she put it back on her head as we walked back to the house.

After I returned and started cooking a little more, I was invited out for a walk with my host sister Miriam about the town. We met two friends of the family, sisters, who both sell hand-made traditional Mayan clothing and other woven goods in the Artisan center in town. All the things sold there are so beautiful! So many colors and types of clothing and table cloths and purses and wallets. If it is made out of cloth there is probably somebody in that center that sells it. There is also a small museum with around 15-20 wooden manikins dressed up in traditional clothing of different parts of Guatemala. I liked reading the paragraph-ish captions that a few of them had, because reading things in Spanish is sooooo much easier for me than listening. After the tour of the museum we walked a few more blocks to buy some more meat for other things the family would be making and selling later that day. Miriam also took me by the cemetery and “cancha”, or sports field, where people play basketball and fútbol.

We returned to the house and continued cooking a few more things. I also sat downstairs for a half hour or so watching the women make tortillas to sell. Lunch is the biggest meal of the day for them so it makes sense that lunchtime is when they sell the most tortillas. The tortillas made here are simply corn and water (masa) rolled into a sphere and flattened by patting the ball between the two palms of the hand, and cooked on a flat surface called a “comal” underneath which is a wood fire. I try and limit myself now to two tortillas per meal (the diameter of one tortilla is about the length of a normal iPod), but I’m sure in a few months when I’m so tired of tortillas it will be much easier. There’s just something so delicious about eating food that is fresh and handmade and warm.

After lunch, which was “sopa de arroz” y “guisado con pollo”, I met up with one other trainee from my town. I showed him around the Artisan building and down a few other streets as we talked in English for the first time in 24 hours. We happened to run into two other trainees from the neighboring town crashing our territory with their host brothers. We six walked around with nothing particular in mind for the next half hour or so and then all went to our respective homes.

I got another chance to go out even after I got back from that voyage, because I needed to buy a towel and a couple books, and an aunt in the family has a store in town. All the stores in town sell a little bit of everything, so if you need toothpaste, crayons, firecrackers, baby clothing, gum, and lettuce, you could pretty much walk in to any one store and be done for the day. I bought a towel, a blank cuaderno for drawing, and a littler libreta (“little book“) to make my own little personal dictionary. Cost, Q55.50, or, about US $7 at 8 Quetzals per U.S. dollar.

In the evening, we set up a stand outside the house with a gas-powered stove to sell food for dinner. We had tostadas with a variety of toppings, “dobladas” which are tortillas folded over with potato in the middle then sealed and deep-fried, and “pupusas” which is a tortilla, only before it’s cooked, it gets cheese put in the middle. All with a variety of toppings. My favorite was the doblada with a scoop of avocado on top. There was also atoll, which is a sweet rice-milk drink served hot. I don’t like that so much, but maybe if I have another type that is not so sweet it will be better. By the time everybody was done selling the food and packing up it was around 9:30 at night and everybody was ready to descansar and go to bed. Como yo. Ahora.

Tamales

Today is the first day staying with my host family of 3 months for training. I spent all afternoon with Doña Esperanza, her daughter Miriam and daughter-in-law Sophia making tamales and another type of food that has salsa and a small bit of meat inside a cooked tortilla called a chuchito. Then I ate them. Two tomales and one chuchito. The tamales were so good.

To make a tamale first we put two large leaves, probably 30cm and up in length, on a plate with the stems facing opposite directions. Then we scooped a spoonful of corn-mush and a spoonful of salsa onto the top leaf and mixed them together. Then we put a bit of meat in the middle - we did chicken and duck. Fold over the sides of the leaf, and then fold the tip of the leaf over. Stand the tamale up on that end to pack all the good stuff together then fold over the stem part of the leaf, neat like a present. To create a tight seal for cooking, do the same with the second leaf over the first one. Finally, wrap the whole thing with a small piece of reed the size of a piece of ribbon, again tie it like a present, and bake them all together in a pot over a wood fire for 1-1½ hours. ¡Que deliciosas!

In other news, I did not shower today, nor will I for the next three months. No, it’s bucket baths from here on out for me. Actually, I did not take a bucket bath today either. Whoops. The host family that I stayed with for the first three nights in Santa Lucia Milpas Altas had a device in their shower that would heat the water you are about to shower with in a small electrical device affixed to the shower head. Now, normally electricity and water don’t mix (or don’t mix well), but I’ve heard they are pretty safe. I did take two showers there and am happy to say that I have not gotten electrocuted yet. This does not go for another in my training group. Apparently he was not the one to turn the heating device on so didn’t know how to turn it off, reached around the top of the device, and accidentally found a few wires sticking out. He said he got blasted out of the shower. I’m so glad I have others to learn from!

Today I was also asked “eres Catolico, o Christian?” Basically they wanted to know if I was Catholic or Christian. Like anything else was not an option. I said, while trying not to lie flat-out, that I was a mixture. Doña Esperanza agreed, “solo es uno” she said as she looked and pointed at the sky, “solo es uno”. I (tried to, in my broken Spanish) explain that the most important part of church to me was the singing and the community and knowing everybody and making friends. That wasn’t exactly a lie…only the church part. But that’s what I had to do. That’s what we were instructed to do. Lie if they ask us what religion we are. All that really matters to them is that we believe in God. According to our training leader Craig, not believing in God is “an actual physical embodiment of the Devil". Cool. Yo soy Diablo!!! I’m sure they’ll ask me to go to church with them which is fine with me. I’m not scared of religion anymore like I used to be, and as long as I don’t have to sit still for hours, it will probably be pretty cool to go to Mass en español. Maybe they’ll give me a bible to read in Spanish. Actually it would probably be really good for me to read some parables that I’m already familiar with in Spanish, it could only help my language learning.

Vasalvagal

Today, during a health lecture about shots and vaccinations and rabies, I almost fainted. Seriously. First I felt like I had a very very mild stomach ache, then I started to feel light-headed. Then the light-headedness began to get worse so I told the girl sitting next to me that I didn’t feel well. I started breathing more deeply but it didn’t get better. After that my eye sight started to go, which didn’t return 100% for about one minute. As soon as the eye sight started to return, my hearing started to go, though as soon as my sight started to come back I wasn’t really worried anymore because this has happened to me once before when I fell off a horse as a child. As the hearing started to come back, or really at some point in the process (I don’t know because I couldn’t see my own face) I turned extremely pale - “white going on green” from what the nurse said. Crazy! It’s called a vasalvagal reaction, and it happens because the muscles surrounding the arteries clamp down because of various environmental (but really psychological) stimuli. Mine was nervousness surrounding the very unlikely possibility that I would need a very painful post-exposure rabies vaccine. And it turns out that my initial fear was actually unfounded because they don’t do those painful shots directly into the abdomen anymore, just a regular shot in the arm. Or rather, a series of two regular shots in the arm. Big deal.

Well, I’ve always know that normal pain to others is extreme pain for me, so I’m not really surprised that I had this sort of panic-attack-like reaction to the anticipation of pain.

I’m sure I’m going to feel a lot of pain these next few years. I will get bitten by mosquitoes, I will get sick, I will get sun-burned, I may get bitten by a snake or spider or other wild animal. I will get too cold and I will get to hot, I will get too wet and I will be just generally uncomfortable. But big deal, really. It will all pass eventually, and though I may be miserable in the moment I know that it will have to end eventually. That’s what I tell myself whenever I get a cold and I can’t remember exactly how it felt to feel well: “I will feel better eventually”. It is so true. And it will all be worth it.

The Peace Corps people told us all to write down reasons why we want to be in the Peace Corps so we could look at them at a later date when are patience is being tried and our commitment tested. My reason simply was “it is the best choice for me at this time”. Now, this includes a nearly endless list of pros and cons which I may write out eventually, but all I really have to remember is that I have more to learn here, more to gain, more things to experience, more fun to have, more challenges, and more wonderful moments than I could ever think of having spending the next 27 months in the states. This is definitely not to say that I don’t enjoy all the things that I have back at home, nor that I think I’ll make better friends here or anything like that, I just believe that the package deal of Peace Corps Guatemala so far outweighs the package deal of California. And I think that’s all I’ll need to remember when those bad days come.